Wine Spectator James Laube's HOT Wines Archive Hot Wines for the week of 01/04/2002 CALIFORNIA Portfolio Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1999 93 points $100 220 cases made At her day job, Genevieve Janssens oversees winemaking at Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa Valley, having responsibility for the Oakville operation and some 400,000 cases of wine covering everything from the Reserve Cabernets to the Fum_ Blancs, with Merlot, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and dessert wines. But she and her husband, artist and teacher Luc Janssens, also have been working on her own label in the gravity-flow winery in their garage (which you can view from their Web site at www.portfoliowinery.com). Called Portfolio Limited Edition, this Hot Wine is a Bordeaux-inspired cuv_e, anchored by the sturdy Cabernet Sauvignon from Hendry Vineyard at the base of Mount Veeder and Cabernet Franc from Oakville. Aged 18 months in French oak, this is a delightfully rich and complex young wine, impeccably balanced, with layers of plush currant and black cherry fruit, touches of anise, sage and cedar, lively acidity and smooth tannins. I tried this wine twice, and each time, after a day of aeration, it continued to gain depth and hold its fruit. Tempting now, it should age well for 10 to 15 years. Available only by direct mail from the winery: PO Box 27, Napa, CA 94559. (707) 265-6555.